Wittner Finetune Geared Violin Peg Set
Wittner Finetune Geared Violin Peg Set
Wittner Finetune Geared Violin Peg Set
Wittner Finetune Geared Pegs - Violin/Viola


Wittner Finetune Geared Violin Peg Set

Sale price$72.99
58 reviews   |  








The wittner finetune geared pegs, a “non-slip” peg solution for your violin. For proper sizing, check out our infographic. Wittner finetune geared pegs are measured by diameter at ring.

Available in different size options:

- 7.8mm Violin (for 4/4 - 3/4 size violin)
- 8.6mm Violin (for 4/4 - 3/4 size. violin)
- 7.2mm (for 1/2 - 1/4 size violin)
The pegs are also available in viola sizes here.

Wittner Finetune Peg Set includes 4 pegs
Made from composite and light alloy material, maintaining the traditional hardwood appearance demanded by professional musicians. Installed by pressing into place without glue. Peg shaft stays in place, and tuning is done by turning peg head. There is no peg/pegbox friction, and peg is not affected by climate and humidity changes.

Only the button and the geared middle section of the shaft on which the string is wound, moves. The Fine Tune pegs have an internal gearing ratio of 8:1 for precise tuning.

We recommend installation by a professional. Before placing your order, we recommend looking at the sizing chart for proper sizing.


Customer Reviews

Customer Reviews
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Tom H.

Not rocket science.... but...

I do love the ease of these tuners! They are a good bit heavier than regular wood tuners and the added neck weight might be an issue for some, though It doesn't bother me. The installation process is pretty straightforward, but some of us can screw up nearly anything - and I'm a woodworker by trade! Here's how it went: I got a little confused by the reviews of others with all sorts of explanations about reaming the holes, when the description indicates that the pegs should just push in (assuming you've bought the correct size) and I suppose assuming that you don't have a violin that didn't already have fitted pegs. I'm wondering now if they were actually reviewing some other kind of peg, so to be clear, I bought the Wittner "Fine-tune" pegs (7.8 mm). The first one, (the G string peg) went in just as described. I pushed it in to the 7.8 mm hole until it was snug and made a mark where I would need to cut it off on the other end, which I did with a Dremel cut-off wheel, then rounded and smoothed the end. It went into place without a hitch and fit nicely in both the entry and exit holes. I lightly tapped it in. Fitting the string into the peg and then tightening it was no problem. It tuned easily, and as advertised, did not slip. The second peg, (the E string) also went in easily and fit nicely. The third peg, (the D string) did not go so well. On my violin, like most, the peg box narrows quite a bit at that point. I placed the peg in and marked where I would need to cut the peg for it to fit flush with the outer wall of the peg box, matching the first two pegs. Unfortunately, I had forgotten that the instructions say that the peg must not be cut more than 4mm past the string hole in the peg. When I cut the peg on my mark, I cut through the metal mechanism inside the peg. However, I had never seen a violin where the pegs weren't cut flush with the peg box, so this seemed odd to me. In order for this peg to be installed and still work, I'd have to leave it at least 2-3 mm protruding from the box. That means that the final peg, (the A string) which is at the very top and narrowest part of the peg box, would have to protrude at least 4-5 mm. So, it becomes a question of aesthetics versus function. I decided to go with the function because I hate tuning and have to do it often as my house's humidity level fluctuates quite a bit. I have never understood how these professional violinists step out on stage and quickly tune their violins (or pretend to) - when mine takes so much pressure to get the peg to turn, while also employing restraint because I only need it to turn the slightest bit, then pushing it in as I twist with even more pressure so that it actually stays in place. I usually have to put the violin on the floor between my feet in order to pull this off - and that with repeated attempts on each peg. Wouldn't that look great on a stage - like a scene from a Charlie Chaplin movie. So, these easy to turn, no-slip, mechanical pegs are great in that regard. The fact the two in the narrowest part of the peg box don't really fit without the noticeable over-hang is unfortunate. (I had to order another peg to replace the one I destroyed.)

Mary K.
United States United States

Such a relief

I had inherited on older violin and the tuning pegs were hard to work with. My luthier installed these new ones, after reeming out the holes so that they would fit. It’s great not to have to struggle with tuning pegs anymore. I also got some new strings from Fiddlershop for him to put on, and the D string broke when he was installing it. However he was able to fix it using some luthier know how and super glue.

David G.
United States United States

Love these tuners

I now have Wittners in all of my fiddles and they make performance a pleasure. I play indifferent tunings, so the geared pegs take the hassle out of changing. Funny thing - Ive had a couple luthiers who initially pulled a face when they realized there were geared tuners in my instrument. When I came back to pick them up after the work was done, both of them had ordered a set of Wittners for themselves! PS-I’ve become a big fan of Fiddlershop.

United States United States

Not just for children and beginners.

Standard pegs, properly fitted, can work well with synthetic strings on violins that rarely stray from standard tuning and when used by a player who has mastered the skill of tuning with them. Even then, they can be a real pain. As a country fiddler who uses steel strings and enjoys alternate tunings, these Wittners are golden. Wish I had put them on years ago. I am not particularly handy, but installed them myself using tools I had on hand. If you're at all nervous about doing it, have your local violin shop install them. At the risk of being laughed at by real violin people, or cursed by people who screw it up, here's how I did it: 1. Wrap each peg head with masking tape and label them G, D, A, E so that you don't get them mixed up. Each peg will fit slightly differently. 2. Make sure to use a reamer with the correct 30:1 taper. A lot of the cheap ones from China are 26:1, but there are also cheap 30:1 reamers if you look around. Make damn sure you're going the right way into the wider of each pair of holes. GO SLOW as you ream and repeatedly test the fit. When it's getting close, GO EVEN SLOWER. If you ream the hole even the slightest titch too big, you're *******. 3. When testing the fit, make sure the little ridges on the shaft are always going in to the same detents they are forming in the wood of the holes. When you're getting within a few millimeters of the final fit, press the pegs in very hard. (If your pegbox is cracked or unsound in any way, don't do this yourself. Take it to a violinmaker.) For the final fit, you're going to want to press them in about as hard as you can, and as the wood compresses the hole diameter will increase ever-so-slightly beyond what you have created with your reamer. The final fit you are working toward will have the little shoulder of the stationary part (the one on the knob side of the peg) right at the inner pegbox wall or even 0.5 mm recessed within the pegbox wall. You do NOT want this little shoulder protruding into the pegbox. If it does, you risk the string hanging up there as the rotating part turns, breaking the string. You could probably still use the peg if you screw this up, but you will have to be super careful when restringing to avoid this problem. Better to just take the time and care to get the installation right. As you're getting very close to the correct fit, you might just want to run the reamer backward to sort of "burnish" the hole bigger rather than cutting it. Just one turn in the cutting direction could be one turn too many if you're not very careful. 4. With each test fit, because you're pushing the pegs in quite hard, you won't easily be able to get them back out. Do not yank on the knob, as this could break the mechanism. Instead, tap the peg out from the narrow end using a plastic hammer. Support the pegbox well with your other hand, take care, and you'll be fine even though it's a little nerve-wracking. 5. Once you have achieved the correct fit with the peg shoved in quite hard (and again, the little ridges lined up in the same grooves they've been creating), use a sharp pencil to mark where the little end exits the pegbox. Then tap the peg out one last time. 6. Cut off the end of the peg at the line you made. Be sure not to cut inside of the line. To do this, I used a little piece of 1 x 2 scrap wood I had laying around. I drilled a hole in it, then used the reamer to enlarge the hole just enough to fit the peg in far enough for the pencil line to emerge, flush with the wood. With the edge of the wood as a guide, I used a fine-toothed hacksaw to cut off the peg end. I'm sure there are better saws for this purpose, but that's what I had in my toolbox. 7. The peg end will now have saw marks and may not be cut at a perfectly square angle. To correct this, I laid sandpaper flat on a table top, held the peg vertically, and rubbed peg end around in little circles on the sandpaper. I think I started with 100 or 150 grit to get the angle square, then moved to 220 to finish removing the saw marks. 8. For a nice appearance that blends in with the fiddle, you want the peg ends to be slightly domed. To achieve this, put your fine-grit sandpaper on something with some give, like a thick carpet or a piece of foam and continue sanding by holding the peg vertically and moving it around in circles. As you get close the the appearance you want, move up to an extra-fine grit. I think I used 440 grit (?) wet-or-dry sandpaper that I dipped in water. At this point, instead of a soft surface, I held the sandpaper in the palm of my cupped hand and sanded against that to soften the edges and increase the dome shape a bit more. 9. When the peg end is shaped the way you want it, rub it briskly on a piece of leather to burnish it to a nice sheen. 10. Time for the final fitting. Wittner says just to shove the pegs in good and hard, but some people say to apply a drop of super glue to be sure they never move. I don't like that idea. I used a Q-tip to apply some powdered rosin to the inside of the pegbox holes, then shoved them in good and hard. I think the powdered rosin will significantly increase the grip without creating the problems that glue would if someone should ever want to remove the pegs in the future. Time will tell, but so far so good. 11. String up your fiddle. Insert the strings in the holes in the direction that only creates a gentle bend rather than a sharp bend as you begin winding. Be very careful to only wind the string on the rotating part of the shaft. If the string is too long to get it all on there, you may have to cut an inch or two off the end. I found it best to start at the hole closest to the center of the peg box, then layer the windings back toward the pegbox wall. Do what seems to work best for you to produce the straightest line from peg to nut. 12. Play your fiddle and wonder how in the **** you ever got by without these.

Andrew L.
United States United States

The Perfect Fit ...

I recently restored a fiddle body back to playing condition. I had made novelty string instruments in the past, but this was a new experience for me. I bought a set of all the accessory pieces needed. However, the stock tuning pegs would not function in the oversize holes in the tuning head of the fiddle. I found these Wittner Finetune Geared pegs came in several sizes. After measuring with a digital caliber, I was able to order a set that fit the fiddle body very well. Moreover, they work well as fine tuners. I showed the fiddle to my fiddle teacher, a classically trained musician, and she remarked as to how well these tuners function.

Fiddlershop founders, Michael Holstein and Pierre Holstein, posing in the Fiddlershop workshop with some of their favorite violin and violas for some of the best workshops

About Fiddlershop

Fiddlershop is a small family-owned business located in South Florida. Since 2012 we have been serving the string community with quality instruments and accessories. We believe that music and instruments should be accessible to everyone at a price they can afford.

Extended Return Window

Orders placed after November 15th will have at least until January 31st, 2023 to return or exchange.